These Cookies Are Colossal: Super-Thick Chocolate Chip Cookies

In April, Stella Parks (aka BraveTart) posted a recipe on Serious Eats for Super-Thick Chocolate Chip Cookies. Her recipe was inspired by the enormous cookies served at Levain Bakery in New York City. I've never been to Levain, but I was intrigued by Stella's recipe. She says that the cookies are more than merely dessert: "they're an emotional journey of epic proportions." Chocolate is the number one ingredient, and the recipe yields only eight cookies.

However, a ginormous cookie like this is not very practical for me to bring to work. But in late April I had the perfect opportunity to give the recipe a try -- my husband's godson came for a visit from California. As a fit teenager with a healthy appetite and a fast metabolism, I decided to bake a batch of these cookies for him to take with him on the flight home.

These cookies require a long chilling time, so you need to plan ahead. Otherwise, the recipe is straightforward. You beat softened butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and nutmeg until light and fluffy; add eggs; mix in all-purpose flour; and incorporate raw walnut pieces and chocolate chips. Stella recommends using a blend of chocolate chips, so I used equal weights of Cacao Barry Extra-Bitter Guayaquil 64% pistoles, Callebaut 70% chips, and Trader Joe's semi-sweet chocolate chips.

I divided the dough into eight portions (using a scale to make sure they were all the same size) and formed each into a ball. They were comically large -- somewhere between the size of a racquetball and a tennis ball. I put the cookies on a tray, wrapped them in plastic, and put them in the fridge overnight.
The following day I took out the cookies, sprinkled them with fleur de sel, and baked them until puffed and golden.  We let them cool until just warm before trying one. My husband Tom, my mother (who was also visiting from California), and I split one cookie three ways. Tom's godson ate two by himself. And I wrapped up the remaining five (after they were completely cooled) to take with him on the plane.
I liked these cookies and couldn't help but be impressed by their heft and proportions, but honestly, I didn't think that they tasted all that special. It's true that the ratio of stuff (chocolate chips and nuts) to batter is very high, but I missed the chewy texture that I look for in a chocolate chip cookie. And while I like walnuts, I personally prefer a chocolate chip cookie without nuts. Plus, these cookies have an impractically short shelf life -- Stella says they taste best when eaten within 12 hours.

I would recommend Stella's Chopped Chocolate Chip Cookies or Jacques Torres' Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe over this one. Bigger is not always best!

Recipe: "Super-Thick Chocolate Chip Cookies" by Stella Parks.

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