A Cake That Strikes Gold: Apple and Cinnamon Cake

The last time I was at the farmer's market I bought some Gold Rush apples. I had never tried the variety before, but there was a handwritten sign above the apple bin describing them as very tart and very hard -- so I figured they would be good for a baking project. I had a difficult time deciding between apple cake recipes but decided to try Mary Berry's "Apple and Cinnamon Cake" from her Baking Bible. The recipe is quite simple but the headnote describes the cake as something "you would expect to find in a first-class coffee shop or tearoom."

This cake is studded with walnuts and golden raisins, with a layer of grated apples and cinnamon in the middle. I was reluctant to follow the recipe instructions, which tell you to dump all of the cake batter ingredients (softened butter, muscovado sugar, eggs, walnuts, raisins, self-raising flour, and baking powder) into a bowl and beat until thoroughly blended. Virtually all of the butter cakes I make employ either the creaming method (cream the butter and sugar first, followed by eggs, then the dry ingredients alternating with the liquid ingredients) or the high-ratio method (mix all the dry ingredients first, followed by softened butter and then the liquid in several parts).

The idea of mixing all of the ingredients of a butter cake together at once is so counter-intuitive that I didn't do it here. I creamed the butter and sugar first (substituting brown sugar for the muscovado sugar); added the eggs; incorporated the flour and baking powder (adding extra baking powder because I used all-purpose flour instead of self-raising flour); and mixed in the walnuts and golden raisins.

I spread half of the batter -- which was very thick -- into a buttered and parchment-lined 9-inch pan that was three inches deep. Then I sprinkled on a layer of grated Gold Rush apples mixed with cinnamon. The recipe calls for 400 grams of apple, and I had that exact weight after peeling and coring two medium apples. I grated the apples in the food processor and I noticed that there was a lot of liquid coming off of the fruit, so I squeezed out as much moisture as I could and soaked it up with paper towels. I topped the layer of grated apple with the remaining cake batter, generously sprinkled on more walnuts and demerara sugar (the latter was also a substitute for muscovado), and put the cake in the oven.
The recipe instructs you to bake the cake for 75-90 minutes. Around 70 minutes in I could detect a whiff of cake that was just starting to become overdone, so I pulled it out of the oven. I'm glad that I baked the cake in a three-inch high pan because the cake was quite tall and I think might have overflowed a two-inch pan. The cake was shaped like a hockey puck, with a completely level top that was just a shade too dark around the edges -- but thankfully the cake was not burnt.

After the cake was completely cool, I dusted it with powdered sugar, which improved its appearance considerably. There was a thick layer of firm crust on the top, bottom, and sides of the cake; the cut slices of cake were very sturdy and you could easily pick them up and eat the cake out of hand. This cake looks rustic and almost homely, but it tastes fantastic. I love the thick crust, especially on top of the cake. And the nuts and plump raisins add so much flavor and texture to this cake, which is moist without being too sweet. The discrete layer of grated apples and cinnamon in the middle is just a bonus, and all honesty, it might not even be necessary. The cake itself is exceptionally good.

Recipe: "Apple and Cinnamon Cake" from Mary Berry's Baking Bible.

Comments

Suelle said…
The method of making the cake batter that you describe is known in the UK as the 'all-in-one' method and has become quite popular. It relies on adding a little extra baking powder, and using very soft butter, and, of course, having an electric mixer. It's usually very successful, even for light cakes like a Victoria Sandwich, and in side-by side tests often gives a better result than the traditional method of creaming the fat and sugar together first.
I can understand why it's popular, since it's so easy! The next time I make this cake, I will give it a try... I know I should just trust Mary Berry, but old habits are hard to break!
Raylene said…
Thank you for posting this recipe. I wanted to use up some old fuji apples I had in the fridge. After reading Suelle's comment, I followed the recipe's directions, including the 2 minute mixing method specified. I baked the oven in my Breville oven at 180 celsius as indicated by the recipe for 70 minutes and my cake was very burnt on top. My fault though, as I had to leave the house at the 30 minute mark, so left my mom in charge (she took it out when the oven beeped). Anyway, this cake was delicious, despite the burnt top. Thanks for sharing all of your baking experiences and a BIG THANK YOU too to my fellow readers with their great tips and comments! I love this blog!!!!
Raylene said…
sorry - baked the CAKE in my Breville . . .
So glad you liked it, Raylene! I think this one of of those cakes that probably also needs to be tented with foil partway through baking to avoid burning.
Raylene said…
BTW, thank also for the heads-up regarding the use of a 9" pan with 3" sides. I used a whole piece of parchment in a spring form pan to prevent leaking. Yes, I wish I had taken better notes of your results and tented the cake before leaving to prevent that burnt top. It was a big mistake on my part, especially considering the cake provided great return for minimal work.