Accept No Substitutes: Corn Cookies

After successfully making the Chocolate-Chocolate Cookies and Peanut Butter Cookies from Momofuku Milk Bar, I decided to move on to Christina Tosi's recipe for Corn Cookies. This recipe is relatively straightforward, in the sense that it doesn't require any sub-components -- like "crunch" or "crumbs" or brittle -- to be prepared separately in advance.

This cookie follows the standard method for making Milk Bar cookies.  You cream together butter and sugar for 2-3 minutes (this recipe does not call for any glucose), add an egg, and then beat the mixture for another 7-8 minutes. You incorporate flour, corn flour, freeze-dried corn powder (made by grinding freeze-dried corn in a blender), baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and then scoop out the cookies and refrigerate them for at least an hour before baking. I used a #16 scoop and got 14 cookies from one batch of dough (the specified yield is 13-15 cookies, so my yield was spot on).

The first time I made this cookie, Whole Foods was out of corn flour, so I bought the next closest thing they had -- masa harina, which is the corn flour made from corn soaked in lime; it's used to make corn tortillas. The resulting cookies tasted (not surprisingly) exactly like a tamale -- which was not horrible, but also not good. (Let me apologize now to everyone in my office for inflicting the masa version of these cookies on you last week.)

Fortunately, when I checked Whole Foods a couple of days ago, they had corn flour back in stock, and I made another batch. They looked identical but were loads better. The second batch of cookies tasted like salted, buttered sweet corn. They have a nice chewy texture that was completely smooth; since there is no corn meal in the cookies, there is no grittiness. The flavor is really unique from anything else I've ever tasted before -- not really comparable to corn bread or corn muffins, but really more like actual corn. The cookies emit a lovely sweet fragrance that is hard to resist. Having been born and raised in the Cornhusker state, I am probably a bigger fan of corn than most -- but these cookies (when properly made with the correct ingredients!) are delicious.

You can now buy box mixes for several varieties of Momofuku Milk Bar cookies -- including corn cookies -- either from the Momofuku online store or from Williams-Sonona.  All of the mixes cost $16 and the corn cookie mix makes 12 cookies. Do yourself a favor and just go out and buy the Momofuku Milk Bar cookbook. If you make yourself a couple of batches of cookies -- instead of either buying the mix or buying them by mail or in person from Milk Bar, it will pay for itself!

Recipe: "Corn Cookies," from Momofuku Milk Bar by Christina Tosi.

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Louise said…
These are probably my favorite Milk Bar cookies. The taste is so unique for a cookie and tastes so much like sweet corn that you want to get out the butter and pepper. :-)