Thursday, April 28, 2011

Ugliness is Next to Tastiness: Peanut Butter Parcels

I was tooling around the internet looking for a recipe to use up some extra buttermilk I had in the fridge when I came across a recipe for "Peanut Butter Parcels" on the King Arthur Flour website.  The recipe is supposed to be a homemade version of a Drake's Funny Bones, a devil's food cake with peanut butter creme filling and chocolate frosting.  I have never tasted a Drake's cake of any sort -- growing up in Nebraska, my snack cake of choice was the Dolly Madison vanilla Zinger.  Thus, I have no idea what a Funny Bones is supposed to taste like.  But the recipe looked promising, so I figured it was worth a try.

You bake the chocolate cake component (butter, sugar, vanilla, eggs, cocoa powder, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and buttermilk) in a 9-inch by 13-inch pan.  The cake is moist but quite firm, such that you can split it into two layers without much of a problem.  Then you spread a peanut butter filling (made from creamy peanut butter, powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla) in between the cake layers.  I froze the filled cake for about half an hour to help the cake and filling set up a bit, and then I trimmed off the edges of the cake and cut the remainder into 27 rectangular bars.

Covering these cakes in the chocolate coating was a huge pain, requiring a lot of time and creating quite a mess.  The recipe indicates that if you want to coat the bottom of the cakes (as well as the top and sides), you will need an extra half batch of coating.  So I made a batch and a half of coating, intending to coat cakes all the way around.  The recipe instructs you to pour coating over the tops of the cakes and then spread it over the sides.  Instead, I took each cake one at a time and used an offset spatula to frost the top and sides, placing the frosted cakes on a wire rack to allow the excess coating to drip off.  These cakes were absolutely hideous after I applied the coating.  They looked a lot like the cakes pictured alongside the recipe on the King Arthur website, with a raggedly and uneven texture.  Also, the cake contained some large air bubbles, and these created visible craters in the coating.

I discovered that if I waited until the chocolate coating set up and then went back to apply another layer, I could smooth out the coating a bit and achieve a marginally better looking product.  In the end, I covered the cakes with a several coats of chocolate, ultimately requiring two and a half batches of chocolate coating (and I didn't even get to coat the bottoms!).  In the future, I would plan to make three batches of coating to make sure I have enough for several layers.

The coating set up nicely and held up well, even during the little spring heat wave we've been experiencing here in D.C.  I'm very glad I added so much chocolate coating, because even though the final product was still messy looking and unattractive (see the picture above), these little cakes were freakin' delicious.  The creamy peanut butter filling was fabulous with the chocolate cake, and the frosting was my favorite part!  It had a nice firm texture and added a lot of flavor to the cake.  As you can see from the cross section below, the outer coating was quite thick.  (The cake in the picture is lopsided because I lost a bit of cake off the bottom during all of the handling to apply the multiple layers of chocolate coating.)

Usually I'm completely superficial when it comes to baked goods and don't like making anything that isn't beautiful and picture perfect, but I would make these ugly cakes again any time.  (And I think I could improve my coating technique with a little more practice.)  Besides being delicious, the whimsy of the snack cake format made these extra fun.  I still don't know if these parcels taste anything like a Funny Bones, but I don't really care if they do or not -- aside from being an eyesore, I think these cakes are just perfect!

Recipe: "Peanut Butter Parcels" from King Arthur Flour.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Baked Sunday Mornings: New York-Style Crumb Cake

As much as I love Baked Explorations, a lot of the recipes in this book are fairly labor intensive, so I'm always happy to try an easy recipe like the "New York-Style Crumb Cake" every now and then.  Before I read this recipe, if you had asked me what the difference is between crumb cake and coffee cake, I wouldn't have had any idea.  Now I know that crumb cake is supposed to be distinguished by: 1) an obscenely large ratio of topping to cake; 2) a topping devoid of nuts; and 3) a cake that is swirl free.  

The crumb topping for this cake is made from dark brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, cinnamon, warm melted butter, and all-purpose flour.  The resulting mixture resembles wet dough; the recipe notes that it's important to allow the topping to rest and dry out a little (even suggesting that you spread the topping mixture out on a baking sheet to help it dry faster) in order to create large crumb chunks.

The cake portion is made from creamed butter, sugar, eggs, sour cream, vanilla, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.  After spreading the cake batter into the pan, the recipe instructs you to pick up a handful of the topping, squeeze it together in your fist, and break off chunks.  I don't think I let my topping rest long enough and I regret not taking the time to spread it out on a sheet to dry out a bit, because my topping was still a little wet at this stage and didn't easily form round crumbs.  Also, although the recipe warns, "Remember, the topping layer will look outrageously thick," it didn't seem like an outrageous amount of topping to me.   I could still see bare spots of cake batter through the crumbs after I sprinkled on all of the topping.

During baking, my crumbs grew together to produce what was pretty much a continuous layer of topping.  Nonetheless, the topping was delicious.  It was crunchy and a little on the sweet side, although the cake wasn't very sweet, so the cake and topping went well together.  I tasted the cake separately, and while it was moist, it wasn't particularly flavorful or remarkable on its own.  However, I think the purpose of the cake is merely to serve as a conveyance for the crumbs, and thus, who really cares? 

I was surprised how much I enjoyed this cake, given that it was somewhat plain in comparison to the types of coffee cakes I tend to favor, which usually include things like blueberries, chocolate chips, nut toppings, and/or swirls (of cinnamon, chocolate, nuts, or any combination of them).  But what's not to like about an exorbitant amount of sweet, buttery, cinnamon topping paired with a moist cake?  Plain or not, the cake is an indulgent treat. 

See what the other members of Baked Sunday Mornings had to say about this cake, here.

Recipe: "New York-Style Crumb Cake" from Baked Explorations: Classic American Desserts Reinvented, by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito.

Previous Posts:

Friday, April 22, 2011

This Cake Is All Wet: Clementine Cake

Earlier this month when I blogged about the Olive Oil Orange Bundt Cake from Baked Explorations, commenter Louise spoke favorably of Nigella Lawson's Clementine Cake.  When I looked at the recipe, I noticed that it didn't contain any flour, and so I made a mental note that I should make it during Passover.

Like the Orange-Glazed Olive Oil Cake with Fleur de Sel, this cake uses whole fruit that has been boiled and run through the food processor. Although Nigella's recipe simply instructs you to cook the clementines for two hours on the stove, I changed the water three times during cooking just in case it would help reduce the bitterness of the pith.  After two hours, the skin of the clementines was very soft, so much so that the it was tearing just from my handling the fruit.  I cooked the clementines a day ahead, so I cooled them and put them in the refrigerator until the next day.

The following day, I ran the clementines -- skin and all -- through the food processor and added them to the remaining ingredients: eggs, sugar, ground almonds, baking soda, and cream of tartar.  I substituted baking soda and cream of tartar for the baking powder specified in the recipe since regular baking powder is not kosher for Passover since it contains cornstarch.  The normal conversion is 1 teaspoon of baking powder equals 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda plus 1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar, as baking powder is just baking soda with some acid and starch added in.  Since the cake recipe calls for a "heaping teaspoon of baking powder," I figured that was probably about a teaspoon and a half, and so I scaled accordingly to 3/8 teaspoon baking soda plus 3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar. 

When I rotated the cake 180 degrees 30 minutes into baking, the center of the top was already quite dark brown, so I tented the cake with foil to prevent the top from burning.  Since I used a 9-inch springform pan and the recipe called for an 8-inch pan, I thought that my cake might finish cooking earlier than the specified time (a 9-inch round pan is more than 25% larger than an 8-inch pan).  I checked the cake at 50 minutes and a toothpick came out clean, so I took it out of the oven.

The top of this cake was completely level -- as you can see in the picture above, the edge of the cake is a precise right angle between the top and side; there was absolutely no doming.  I was quite alarmed when I cut the cooled cake, because the it was wet.  I don't mean that it was merely moist (the way that good cake should be, of course) or undercooked.  The cake was cooked through.  However, the cake was wet the way that a sponge soaked with water is wet; it released clear liquid when you squeezed it, and the cake left a small puddle behind when you picked up a piece.  It was bizarre.  I have never seen a wet cake like this, except perhaps a tres leches cake that is purposely soaked with liquid until it reaches saturation.  The other truly odd thing about this cake is that the bottom of each piece had a layer that was basically pure cooked egg -- if you look carefully in the picture above (click to enlarge), you can see the thin layer of light yellow egg on the bottom, especially towards the center of the cake.

Despite all this, the cake was tasty, without any hint of bitterness.  The clementine flavor was very nice without being overpowering, and the ground almonds gave the cake a great texture.  And, of course, the cake was very moist!

I'm still not quite sure why the cake was so wet.  Part of me thinks this problem could have been ameliorated if I had baked the cake for a full hour.  Also, the one slice of cake that I saved for Tom and put in the refrigerator for about 12 hours was less wet -- but I'm not sure if this was due to the passage of time, from being chilled, or both.  I also think that I used too many clementines.  The version of the recipe that I used from the Food Network website says to use 4 to 5 clementines, about one pound total weight.  I got out my scale and used six clementines, which came to about 18 ounces.  I noticed, however, that the version of this recipe on Nigella's website, which has metric measurements, specifies 375g total weight clementines, or a little over 13 ounces.  I think I might have just ended up with more clementine juice than the cake could absorb, especially in the absence of any flour. 

I do want to try this cake again with fewer clementines, and maybe let it sit a day or two before serving, since the consensus seems to be that the cake improves with time.  I do love almonds and clementines.  And this cake did have a lovely flavor.  So I hope to give it another try soon!

Recipe: "Clementine Cake" by Nigella Lawson, available here and here.

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Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Reveling in No Leavening: Flourless Chocolate Cake with Coffee Liqueur

Even though Tom and I are not Jewish, I always try to make Passover-friendly desserts for folks at the office who are observing the holiday.  I have never been a fan of baking with matzo cake meal, so usually I just make flourless recipes.  Last night, I decided to revisit a recipe that I haven't made for a few years, the "Flourless Chocolate Cake with Coffee Liqueur."  

To make this cake, you melt a pound a semisweet chocolate with a half pound of butter, along with some vanilla and Kahlua.  You then fold in seven eggs that have been beaten with a cup of sugar until they are thick and pale.  That's it.  While lots of the recipe reviewers reported that the cake needs significantly more baking time than specified, I baked my cake for exactly 55 minutes as directed, and it came out perfectly.  Although the center did rise and crack during baking, it settled back in after cooling and I ended up with a very pretty cake.

I love this cake.  While each bite is decadently rich, the texture is creamy and surprisingly light.  The cake practically melts in your mouth, delivering a smooth not-too-sweet chocolate flavor with a hint of Kahlua.  This elegant dessert is lovely even without any decoration or accompaniment, and is special enough to befit any occasion. 

Recipe: "Flourless Chocolate Cake with Coffee Liqueur" from epicurious.com.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Does Ruff Puff Have the Right Stuff?: Quick Puff Pastry

Last night Tom and I had some friends over for dinner and it seemed like a good opportunity try out a technique that I read about in the Los Angeles Times a few weeks ago,  quick puff pastry -- or as it's sometimes called, "ruff puff."  I have never attempted puff pastry before, because making classic puff pastry is a laborious process that requires folding dough around a block of butter, and repeatedly rolling and folding the dough to create hundreds of layers, all while making sure that the butter isn't too cold or too warm.  Who needs that hassle when you can just head to your grocery store freezer case to buy a box of the pre-fab stuff for a few bucks?

I had never heard of "quick" puff pastry before, although apparently this technique is quite popular (try Googling "quick puff pastry" and see how many results you get).  The recipe featured in the LA Times involves pulsing frozen butter in the food processor with salt and chilled all-purpose and cake flours, and then adding in cold lemon juice and ice water.  The result I got was a pile of crumbs that made me wonder if it was too late to run to the grocery store to buy a box of the frozen stuff.  But I was able to smush the pile of crumbs into a mound, roughly shape it into a rectangle, fold it over, roll it out, and fold it in half again.  After 20 minutes in the freezer, the dough became much easier to handle, and each subsequent time I rolled and folded it, it became smoother.  At the end, the dough looked just perfect.

I decided to try two recipes with the puff pastry dough.  First, I made vol-au-vents, or shells.  The LA Times had a recipe for vol-au-vents filled with pea shoots and herbed goat cheese that I thought would make a nice first course for our dinner.  I used a 3.5-inch fluted cutter to cut out rounds of the puff pastry, and a 2-inch cutter to cut out the centers.  While the shells did puff nicely in the oven, they were not large enough to hold very much (even though I pierced the bottoms with a fork, the bottoms still rose quite a bit, so the cavity of the shells was quite shallow) -- I basically filled them with herbed goat cheese and piled a mini arugula salad on top and along the side.  The shell in the picture below was probably the best looking one of the batch; some of the others ended up more oval than round, or listed to the side.  Still, it was a nice presentation.  The pastry was very flaky and crisp, and a delicious accompaniment to the cheese and salad.

I also made a strawberry tart with the puff pastry for dessert.  To make the tart, you bake a puff pastry base and fill it with orange-vanilla pastry cream and sliced strawberries, brushing the fruit with some melted jam.  I served the tart with vanilla ice cream. 

I wasn't a big fan of the orange-vanilla pastry cream (I think that plain vanilla, or perhaps lemon would have worked better), but this tart was still very good, with a flaky, buttery crust.

One issue I encountered with the ruff puff was that the dough did appear to rise a little unevenly; not only were some of my shells definitely tilting to one side, but as you can see in the above picture of the tart, the tart border did not rise straight up, but was slightly twisted.  I think that using purchased puff pastry has much more predictable results.  Still, I did get quite a sense of satisfaction from making my own puff pastry, even if I did have to take a major shortcut!  The psychic and corporeal return on ruff puff is definitely worth the (relatively) minimal amount of time and effort required. 

Recipes:

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Brown Sugary Sweetness: Clementine's Butterscotch Brownies

When I saw last week's Culinary SOS column in the Los Angeles Times, I knew I would have to make the featured recipe as soon as possible -- butterscotch brownies from Clementine Bakery.  Clementine's banana cake recipe that was featured in Culinary SOS in 2008 is very good, and the bakery's strawberry scone recipe that appeared in Culinary SOS in 2005 is phenomenal.

You can put together the butterscotch brownie recipe in only a few minutes -- you simply melt butter, and then add in dark brown sugar, an extra large egg, vanilla, sifted dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, salt), and walnuts.  The resulting mixture was very thick and I had to use an offset spatula to spread the mixture out in the pan. 

The finished bars (I think that these should be called "bars" instead of "brownies" since they don't contain any chocolate) were a rather unexciting shade of tan.  They were very moist and fairly thin in the middle of the pan, but taller and chewier along the edges.  They definitely have a very strong brown sugar/butterscotch flavor -- in fact, I thought that they were way too sweet, although at least having the nuts in there did add some flavor and texture contrast.  But if you like your sweets on the sweet side, these bars are an easy way to get a brown sugar fix!

Recipe: "Clementine's Butterscotch Brownies," from the April 7, 2011 Los Angeles Times.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Baked Sunday Mornings: Carrot Coconut Scones with Citrus Glaze

I've had a great time being part of Baked Sunday Mornings.  Not only is it wonderful being able to bake along with other bloggers, but Seattle Pastry Girl has done a fantastic job organizing the bakealong, and she selected several recipes that I'm pretty sure I never would have tried if left to my own devices.  "Carrot Coconut Scones with Citrus Glaze" is one of those recipes.  I make scones fairly regularly, both savory and sweet.  And even though I love both carrots and coconut, somehow the idea of putting them together in a scone didn't seem all that appealing to me. 

These scones contain a carrot puree that is made from cooked carrots and freshly squeezed orange juice.  You are supposed to microwave the carrots and juice together until the carrots are soft, and then puree the mixture in a blender or food processor.  Since Tom and I don't own a microwave, I just steamed the carrots and used an immersion blender to puree them with the orange juice.  (Incidentally, I often make a carrot macaroni and cheese from Food & Wine that starts out the exact same way -- cooking carrots with orange juice, and then blending until smooth.) 

To make the scones, you combine flour, sugar, oats, baking powder, salt, and shredded sweetened coconut in a bowl, and rub in cubes of cold butter until the mixture is coarse.  Then you add in all of the wet ingredients (egg, buttermilk, vanilla, and carrot puree), and stir until the dough comes together.  This dough was very sticky and and somewhat difficult to handle, but using quite a bit of flour, I was able to shape the dough into discs and cut them into wedges.  Supposedly this recipe yields 6 to 8 scones, but I made 12 scones from each batch of dough, and they were what I would consider to be normal size. 

After the scones are baked and cooled, you are supposed to drizzle on a glaze made from powdered sugar, fresh lemon juice, and fresh orange juice.  Since my glaze was quite thin -- even after I added some extra powdered sugar -- I decided not to bother with drizzling.  Instead I just dunked the tops of the scones into the glaze to coat the entire top.  After the glaze set (which took just a few minutes), I dunked a second time just for good measure.  Then I sprinkled on a little toasted coconut.

This scone was lightly sweet, with lots of chewy coconut texture.  I loved the citrus glaze, and I'm very glad that I dunked the entire top of each scone in it, because the glaze gave each bite a bright lift of flavor.  There was only 1/4 cup of carrot puree in each batch of scones, and they were not very carrot-y (although you could definitely see orange-colored bits of carrot throughout).  These also were not crumbly like most other scones I make, but I was very pleasantly surprised at how much I (and everyone else who tried them) liked them.  The citrus glaze is the perfect pairing for the scone; together they are a delicious and fresh combination of flavors and textures.  I would happily make these again.

See what the other Baked Sunday Mornings bakers thought of this recipe here.

Recipe: "Carrot Coconut Scones with Citrus Glaze" from Baked Explorations: Classic American Desserts Reinvented, by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito.

Friday, April 8, 2011

A Cake with Zest: Mom's Olive Oil Orange Bundt

In trying to plan ahead to make the "Carrot Coconut Scones with Citrus Glaze" this weekend for Baked Sunday Mornings, I noticed that the scones call for freshly squeezed orange juice, but don't require any orange zest.  As luck would have it, another recipe in Baked Explorations -- "Mom's Olive Oil Orange Bundt" -- calls for the zest of two oranges, but doesn't require any juice.  Making the bundt cake ahead of the scones seemed like the perfect plan -- I could zest the oranges for the cake, and then use the juice for the scones.

This cake requires only a few basic ingredients and doesn't take long to make. You beat egg yolks until they are pale and light, and then add in sugar, plain yogurt, olive oil, orange zest, and vanilla.  After mixing in the dry ingredients (flour, baking powder, salt), you fold in egg whites that have been beaten to stiff peaks.  My batter had a slight greenish tinge from the olive oil I used, an Italian extra virgin olive oil made by Occhipinti.  While the cookbook also offers a recipe for a glaze of powdered sugar and orange juice, the recipe notes that the cake doesn't need it (plus, I needed to save the orange juice for the scones!) -- so I just opted to sprinkle some powdered sugar on top.

This cake was moist and had a firm texture similar to, but not quite as heavy as, pound cake.  The orange flavor was delicate but noticeable, and there was definitely an overall fruitiness to the cake from the olive oil.

This cake was quite tasty and warmly received, and I would make it again.  However, I don't think it quite reaches the heights of Bill Yosses' Orange-Glazed Olive Oil Cake with Fleur de Sel from his cookbook The Perfect Finish: Special Desserts for Every Occasion.  Then again, making Bill Yosses' olive oil cake is an undertaking that requires considerably more time and hassle.  The Baked Explorations olive oil orange bundt is a great return on very little effort. 

Recipe: "Mom's Olive Oil Orange Bundt" from Baked Explorations: Classic American Desserts Reinvented, by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito.

Previous Post: "A Baking Leap of Faith: Orange-Glazed Olive Oil Cake with Fleur de Sel," July 9, 2010.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Yeehaw!: Cowboy Cookies

I have been meaning to try the Baked Explorations recipe for Cowboy Cookies for some time; I have really enjoyed other cookies that included chocolate and pretzels together (see, e.g., the Monster Cookie with Pretzel M&Ms, and the Peanut Butter and Pretzel Chocolate Chip Cookie).  The Cowboy Cookie has chocolate chips and broken pretzel pieces mixed into an oatmeal cookie dough enhanced with a bit of instant espresso powder.

You make these cookies by creaming together cool butter, sugar and dark brown sugar, adding in an egg, egg yolk, vanilla, and some instant espresso powder dissolved in warm water, mixing in the dry ingredients (flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, and oats), and then finally incorporating the chocolate chips and pretzel bits.  You have to chill the dough for at least four hours before baking.

When you're ready to bake, you form balls of dough (I used a #24 scoop), sprinkle on a few more pretzel pieces, and flatten the cookies slightly to press the pretzels into the dough.  

This is a delicious cookie.  You can't taste the espresso powder, but the cookie is hearty, moist, and chewy.  I thought that the cookie probably could have used more pretzels, or perhaps larger pieces of pretzel -- while the pretzels did add a nice salty crunch, they seemed to be slightly overshadowed by the chocolate chips.  Nonetheless, these cookies are some tasty vittles!

Recipe: "Cowboy Cookies" from Baked Explorations: Classic American Desserts Reinvented, by Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Can Chocolate + Salt Change the World?: World Peace Cookies

While was flipping through my copy of Dorie Greenspan's Baking: From My Home to Yours to look at the recipe for "Chocolate Malted Whopper Drops," I also noticed the recipe for "World Peace Cookies."  I have heard about this cookie before.  It was one of the offerings at Dorie's recent Cookiebar pop-up store, and I know that it's enormously popular -- but for some reason I've never tried making them before.

The world peace cookies are salty chocolate sablés with chocolate chunks.  The recipe originally comes from Pierre Hermé, and was also included in one of Greenspan's earlier books (Paris Sweets) under the name "Korova Cookies."  Greenspan notes that she renamed the cookies after one of her neighbors who tried the cookies became "convinced that a daily dose of Pierre's cookies is all that is needed to ensure planetary peace and happiness."

To make the cookie dough, you cream butter with granulated sugar and brown sugar, add fleur de sel and vanilla, and then mix in sifted dry ingredients (flour, cocoa powder, baking soda).  After the dry ingredients are incorporated, you stir in bittersweet chocolate chunks, form the dough into logs, and refrigerate the dough for at least three hours.

I refrigerated my dough for 24 hours, and was able to make half-inch thick slices as directed without any difficulty (no cracking or crumbling).  These cookies flattened slightly and spread during baking, which is a good thing, because the fat slices straight from the chilled log were not terribly attractive.

This cookie is really, really good.  It has the sandy texture typical of a sablé and an intense chocolate flavor with a strong salty accent.  I used chopped 70% Lindt chocolate bars for the chunks, so the overall flavor was markedly bittersweet.  Dorie recommends eating these cookies at room temperature (as opposed to warm) because of the greater textural contrast between the chocolate chunks and the crumbly cookie; I totally agree.  I don't really understand why the salt is so pronounced (the recipe is written to yield three dozen cookies, although I made mine slightly larger than suggested and got two dozen three-inch diameter cookies) but only includes 1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel.  But, as Greenspan points out, these cookies are most memorable because they're salty.  "Not just a little salty, but remarkably and sensationally salty.  It's the salt... that surprises, delights and makes the chocolate flavors in the cookies seem preternaturally profound." 

There certainly is something profound about the complex flavor of this cookie -- the salt heightens the chocolate flavor and turns this cookie into something quite special.  I can't claim to have achieved world peace, but I absolutely believe that these cookies have the power to transport the eater to a place of contented bliss, even if that fleeting elation lasts only for a few bites.